Things I Love About Being Back in Buenos Aires

Excuse the long blog hiatus. The end of 2014 was crazy for me, and 2015 started off on the same foot. I then went back to South Africa for 4 weeks, and Brazil for a few days (more on both those trips coming…). After the break, I’m back in Buenos Aires, mi querido, with a bit of homesickness and some readjustment shock. But, I am happy to be here and to continue exploring Argentina and South America, and improve my Spanish.

My return to Buenos Aires has been a bit chaotic, very busy, and lacking in sleep (as is normal for my life here).

It hasn’t been easy at all times. There’s nothing like going home to make you remember how much you miss your family and friends. Plus the shock of going back to work after being away for 5 weeks took a while to get used to. Then one friend’s life crisis, made me examine my own life here, and future plans and decisions, which resulted in some extra stress.

But through all of that, it has been a good homecoming. Buenos Aires is an easy city to love, and being back has reminded me of why I love this place. I’ve also realised that it isn’t quite done with me yet, nor have I become satiated with it yet.

Things I love about being back in BA

My apartment. Coming home to my bed and making myself at home again was a great feeling. But it’s really the view I love the most. I arrived back at night, and walked in to the sight of the twinkling lights of the city from the windows. Since then, I have taken many moments to stand on the balcony, soaking in the sounds of the city, enjoying the familiar skyline and watching the sun sink, and the stars rise.

One small weird pleasure for me in this city is taking taxis. Inevitably I take them late at night, and my accented Spanish usually starts a conversation. Late night taxi conversations give me a great space to practice my Spanish and have involved some weird encounters and topics of conversation. I’m also just amazed at the backgrounds of drivers. When I landed back in the city, I took the Tienda Leon bus, which is a shuttle that brings you back from the airport (a good 45 minutes outside of the city centre) to their station, and has a cheap shared drop-off taxi service. This was my first real Spanish in five weeks (minus a couple of short conversations in Brazil, where I relied on my Spanish to make up for my complete lack of Portuguese). The driver was from Spain, although his parents were Argentine. He had recently moved out here and was loving the change, and sure he would never move back to Europe. Here we were, from two totally different backgrounds, drawn to the city by different reasons, chatting freely about our mutual love for the place, and our similar experiences here.

Buenos Aires is full of spontaneous moments that make it interesting. Sitting on the couch at 8pm and getting a text from a friend to try out a newly discovered wrap joint, leading to 3 bus rides and an adventure in the rain, all for the love of good food. It is a quick beer leading to an evening of Brazilian food and drinks on a friend’s balcony. Picnics in the park, listening to the Teatro Colón’s orchestra perform, while drinking wine, followed by sneaky wine drinking in Palermo’s most buzzing plaza, whilst people watching bachelorette games and drunk people, tourists and locals.

Its venturing to the park to read on a bench, surrounded by nature and birds despite being in the middle of the city. Or seeking refuge in a French café, enjoying a coffee and croissant and a book, on my own and perfectly content.

And of course, one of the best parts of returning has been reuniting with friends and rediscovering the incredible network I’ve built up here, which is the reason the city feels like home. From tacos and tequila nights, to fried chicken dinners, coffee and bagel brunches, bus rides, partying all night and watching the sun rise over the river with some crazy friends, celebrations, music festivals, conversations over wine, and evenings of games and party tricks, to those deep and meaningful conversations that you have with only your closest friends, indicating just how deeply friendships can develop in such a short time.

Life has been non-stop since I’ve been back, and doesn’t like it is slowing down anytime soon. In between it all, I’ll try to carve time to sit and write (since at the end of the day, this blog is really a space for me to keep my memories of my travels and to provide an outlet to write and regurgitate my thoughts without worrying too much about SEO, the audience, click-through rates etc etc). In the meantime, I’ll be living my life in Buenos Aires, seeking as many weird and wonderful experiences as I can in this city while I’m still here.

3 Life Lessons that Tango Taught Me

Tango dancers at Tango Porteño

Tango dancers at Tango Porteño

My Life in Buenos Aires has been marked in many ways by tango. I’ve had the good fortune to attend 3 tango shows and I’ve also taken a few tango lessons. At the same time, tango has been teaching me. I wrote about these lessons over on Pink Pangea. Here is a snippet from my piece:

Buenos Aires is synonymous with tango. Tango permeates the city on every level, from the superficial tourist traps of La Boca, where you can pose with tango dancers on El Caminito, to the touts on Florida Street selling tickets to the city’s many tango shows. But the real spirit of tango can be found in the dimly lit milongas (tango salons) where beginners, tango fanatics and professionals mix, moving sensually across the dance floor to the moving backdrop of accordions and violins emanating passionately from live tango bands.

 

Naturally, no trip to Argentina is complete without experiencing a bit of this tango culture. This tango culture, I might add, is not the overdramatic tango of Hollywood movies, but rather the original, authentic Argentine brand of tango, which smolders quietly in its intimacy. While I highly recommend attending a tango show for the grand venues, historical journeys, endearing cheesiness and spectacular dancing, the best way to really get to know tango is to take lessons in one of the city’s many milongas.

 

Read the rest of the article on Pink Pangea.

Passionate dancers at Esquina Carlos Gardel

Passionate dancers at Esquina Carlos Gardel

Street Art of Buenos Aires

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I see a lot of people complaining in expat forums about graffiti in Buenos Aires, but when graffiti leads to incredible street art in unexpected places, I’m personally a big fan. This collection is taken from San Telmo, Palermo, Recoleta and Colegiales. They represent a tiny fraction of the number of photos I’ve collected of street art, and an even smaller fraction of the amount of artistic graffiti scattered around the city. They serve as a good reminder to always pay attention when walking the streets of Argentina’s capital, because there are unexpected gems everywhere, sometimes in the form of a massive mural that you can’t miss, and other times the smallest scribble on the wall proclaiming that “Mickey Mouse is dead”.

*This is admittedly a lazy post because I have much to write and very little time to commit those words to (digital) paper at the moment. A good sign, at least, that my life is currently (overly) full of exciting things!

Capturing the streets of Palermo

Palermo Street Scene

Palermo Street Scene

Recently I did a photography tour through Bsas4u, with an amazing company called Foto Ruta. I did the iPhone Tour (or iPhoneography as it has catchily been named) – seeing as iPhone photography has become a trendy thing thanks to the amazing advances in smartphone camera technology. I’ve seen a few tours like this pop up in South Africa already. This is the time to admit that I don’t actually own an iPhone but borrowed one from work, and took my normal camera along as well.

Mosaic details and reflections

Mosaic details and reflections

Foto Ruta started in Buenos Aires, offering normal photography tours. Their flagship tour is called “Clue” – where you get a map and a set of clues as your inspiration, and then set off finding pictures to match the clues (this tour is definitely on my to-do-list while I’m here, I love the concept). They also offer a range of other tours, including the iPhoneography tour, food photography (actually this one sounds up my alley if it means I can eat the food too), tango tours and more. They’re an innovative company who run great tours that are professional and fun. I’d say they’re doing pretty well since they’ve expanded to include tours in Santiago, Chile, London, and Barcelona.

wandering the streets

Exploring the streets of Buenos Aires (and learning how use editing apps!)

I can definitely see why it is a successful model. I’m no stranger to the streets of Palermo Soho, but seeing it through the creative eyes of my camera lens, I noticed so many more details than ever before, it was like walking through a new neighbourhood. Most of the other ladies on the tour with me were also expats living here for varying lengths of time, and we all had the same comment that the tour gave us new eyes with which to look at the city.

The best was having a professional photographer as a guide. The lovely Bereissa gave us a tutorial to begin with and guidance throughout. I walked away having felt like I’d actually learnt something, and I’ll definitely be using the tips I learnt in the future. I was really impressed with my pictures at the end of the day, and had a really hard time choosing my favourites, so here is my lengthy selection (although I have a whole album dedicated just to graffiti, which I will post at a later stage).

My full review of the tour will be on the Bsas4u blog soon! In the mean time, I wrote a guest post on Foto Ruta’s blog. Their blog is well worth perusing for great photography tips, travel info and just beautiful photography. Plus, if you’re passing through any of the cities they offer tours, I really recommend doing one!

*Some of the photos were taken with my Panasonic Lumix, as I switched between this and the iPhone.

A Taste of Armenia

There are times in life where no matter how tired you are, you just don’t turn down a dinner invitation. Walking into my house at 19:30 in the evening last saturday, tired, hungry and looking for dinner ideas, I was overjoyed when I saw a message from a friend saying she had a booking at the Armenian cultural centre for dinner.

U.G.A.B Cena de Los Viernes is run by an Armenian school here in Buenos Aires. To raise funds for the trip the kids take at the end of their last year of the school, they host dinners every Friday and Saturday in the Armenian Cultural Centre. Walking into a non-descript building, you go downstairs into, essentially, the basement, where its kind of like walking into a wedding reception. It is a huge set-up with tables filling the massive hall.

Adding to the charm is the fact that the food is cooked by the mothers of the students. It really doesn’t get more authentic than home-cooked food prepared with love. The students then wait the tables, and perform a traditional dance half-way through the meal.

I was definitely not disappointed with the food. The menu looked so enticing. It was a good thing we were a fairly large group of people, so we could order a bit of everything for the table to share. Starters and mains came out quickly, with amazing hummus and smokey baba ganoush with pita bread, dolmas, kebabs, byorek (phyllo pastry with cheese), moussaka and much more. The food was absolutely delicious (I’m still dreaming of how good the hummus in particular was), and the atmosphere just made it even better. Plus the sharing of food around a round table of friends, the wonderfully friendly students serving, and the homely atmosphere made the evening that much more enjoyable.

Of course, no one could resist dessert, even though at that point everyone was stuffed. It didn’t help that the previous night had been spent at a parrilla for a friend’s birthday, where massive bife de chorizos (steaks) were consumed with an unlimited salad bar, chips and copious amounts of wine. But I’m a sucker for mediterranean sweets. All the desserts were laid out buffet style. After oohing and aahing over the selection of baklava, harisah, and various other amazing looking treats, we ended up getting one assorted plate to share between everyone. It turned out to be just the perfect thing to end the meal, with everyone getting a bite of each treat, which was just about all I could manage at the point. That was washed down with Turkish coffee (followed by a hilarious impromptu coffee reading by a friend). I pretty much rolled out of the hall at the end, after a marathon eating session lasting from 20:30 – 12:30.

I can’t rate this place highly enough, and will definitely be going back. I was also very pleasantly surprised by the extremely good value for money, with the whole meal, with starters, mains, dessert, beer and coffee coming out at 150 pesos per person.

Incidentally, I came across the following article this week about an initiative in Sweden to use dinners as a way of crossing cultural barriers.This dinner was a good reminder of that, as I got a bit more insight into Armenian culture as well as Argentina’s immigrant history and culture. I think food truly is one of the best ways to get to know a culture, as well as to connect people over the act of sharing a meal together. The article is definitely food for thought (pun intended) for how we can tackle intolerance and ignorance of others cultures.

U.G.A.B Cena de los Viernes is on Armenia 1322, Palermo Soho. Bookings can be made by phoning: 4773-2820. Website: http://www.ugab.org.ar

La Exposicíon Rural: A taste of country life

There is a massive venue a few blocks from where I live called “La Rural”. There is pretty much always something going on here. I’ve attended Nuestros Caballos y Perros and Feria del Libro so far, although there is an event on most weeks it seems. Next month is of course the famous Tango festival which I’m really looking forward to.

But the main event at La Rural is La Exposición Rural. This annual agricultural fair has been going on for years. It is a great celebration of Argentina’s massive agricultural industry. If it’s farming related, it’s here – livestock, with rows of cows of every breed, sheep, horses, and unnecessarily large farming equipment (just look at my pictures of the tractors and the like. The wheels on most of the farming monsters were taller than me). Then there’s the food…

Amongst the many exhibition stands, there were great products on sale, from handcrafted chocolates, dulce de leche, organic honey, jams and preserves etc. Plus a range of great parrillas and food stands, where I devoured a choripan (because a good chori and salt-of-the-earth farmers and traditional agri-related-everything just fit so well together).

Then there were the horse related stands, with top quality tack and riding clothes that made me itch to buy things despite the fact that I no longer own a horse. Not to mention watching the show jumping competition, and stables full of horses – it made me miss riding and being around horses so much.

Just to add to the rugged display of all things agricultural, there was a massive pit with a 4×4 course, where people were queueing to get a chance to ride in massive 4x4s around the course. Not my idea of a thrill, but entertaining to watch none-the-less well enjoying my choripan in the sun.

The whole event made for a fun sunday out. It’s incredibly family orientated, especially given it is school holidays here, and the huge venue was jam-packed with people, including a mass of excited children at the sight of all the animals. But it was worth the crowds to get a taste of life in the pampas!

Día del Amigo

Last Sunday was friendship day (la día del amigo) here in Argentina. It is technically International Friendship Day, but it since it originated here in Argentina, people celebrate it seriously. The day was the brainchild of Dr. Enrique Ernesto Febbraro, a philosopher and dentist, who, after watching the Apollo 11 landing in 1969, was so struck by the unity and connection this moment brought mankind that he decided to create an International Friendship Day on 20 July. He wrote hundreds of letters to various countries putting forward the idea. The day really took off in Argentina, where it is officially recognised (although isn’t a public holiday). I know it is also celebrated in Paraguay and Brazil, but can’t really speak for anywhere else.

It is a wonderful celebration here as everyone meets up with friends and spends the day (if not weekend or week, since celebrations tend to go on much longer than just the one day) together. It helped that it was a stunner of a day, with blue skies and surprising warmth after a week of cold and rain (a brief respite, since it has since been sub-zero freezing). It seemed like everybody was out and about in the parks, at the markets, and in restaurants and cafes, enjoying the great weather and company of their amigos.

Without the initial intention to celebrate the day, I ended up spending it in great style with a group of friends. I met up with mi amigos at Buenos Aires Market, a great food market that takes place once a month. With a range of great organic products and various handcrafted goods on display, this market never disappoints. After coffee, fruit juice and a very more-ish pain au chocolat, the clock struck 12 making drinking an acceptable activity. We grabbed a range of artisanal beers (including an amazing smoked one) and sat in the sun, enjoying life. Since the day was just so beautiful, everyone was keen to hit up another market so we headed to Recoleta and the Plaza Francia market. More decadence followed, with chocolate dipped strawberries on sticks, followed by choripans and (more) beer, enjoyed on the grass whilst listening to live music, a gymnastic performance and catching the late afternoon rays.

It was a perfect sunday, and reaffirmed (not that I needed reaffirming) that life here is very good indeed. More than the wonderful feeling of contentment and savouring every minute of a beautiful life in Buenos Aires, the day also reminded me of how important a network of friends is. It’s great knowing I have such amazing friends at home (and scattered around the world, since a few of my favourites are off on their own adventures to far-off places this year). The joys of technology means I get to keep in close contact with them. But I’m also extremely grateful for having developed a great network of friends here as well. Being an expat brings a whole new element to forming friends – everyone has left their safety nets and support systems at home, so you tend to form bonds much more quickly and intensely.

Having a group of international friends, all with interesting life stories and experiences, a shared love of Buenos Aires and travelling, and adventurous spirits, friends who you can call on when you want to head to a bar, try a new restaurant, spend a lazy day at a market, or when you need to vent, need a shoulder to lean on, or just general life support, makes living far from home so much easier. It’s the people you meet while travelling, after all, that really make your journey memorable.

To add a shameless plug at the end of this heartfelt post, the website I write for has been celebrating friendship day and month by sharing our team’s favourite spots in the city, including my own. I think I’m officially integrated in this city now that I’m giving out advice to others on where to go! You can read my insider tip over here!

World Cup Madness in Buenos Aires

Argentines are incredibly passionate people, but the one thing they are most passionate about is football. Football is pretty much a religion here, and Maradona is God (I’m not exaggerating, there is an actual church of Maradona, with 10 commandments and all). So the vibe here last week was pretty indescribable. For those that live under a rock and who don’t eat and breathe football during the world cup, Argentina won their semi-final last Wednesday, and played in the final on Sunday.

As I write this, I am physically and emotionally exhausted from last week’s craziness. I’ve never really had a team to fully support in a world cup. Bafana Bafana crashed out early in the last world cup (although I had great fun getting to support them from Mexico), and I usually pick teams based on playing style. For the last three cups, it’s always been a toss up for me between Spain, Germany and Argentina. This world cup was a no-brainer, especially since I have been a casual Argentina supporter for years. This year was all about La Selección, the beloved Albicelestes. And I have never felt so deeply for a sports team, not even for the Springboks or Proteas. There is something about the FIFA World Cup that is just on an entirely different level to any other sports competition in the world. It sucks you in, causes you stress, elation, and the full range of emotions in between. I’ve never before felt so much emotion supporting a team.

Let me try to describe the atmosphere here. On Wednesday, we packed in with a crowd of what newspapers have estimated between 15,000 and 20,000 people in Plaza San Martín. Everyone was decked out in blue and white, and there was a palpable air of anticipation. As the game got under way, and we headed deep into extra-time with no goals, the crowd was quiet and tense. Nails were bitten, people were offering silent prayers, and hands were wrung in tension as the game went to penalties, not something fans consider Argentina’s strong point. But then Romero saved the first penalty shot. The entire crowd went absolutely mental as it realised how much closer we were to winning this now. Then Romero saved a second and it was all down to Maxi’s last penalty shot. The roar of excitement when the ball hit the back of the nets, with Argentina winning 4-2 on penalties, was unreal. I can’t say much more about that moment since I was jumping up and down and screaming with the rest of the crowd. We were then swept along with the crowd down the road, along Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest avenue in the world) to the Obelisco. There the crowd thronged, growing into a mass of tens of thousands of elated fans, singing, dancing, waving their flags, shirts and scarves in the air. There were plenty of insults thrown at Brazil along the way – the two countries are mortal enemies when it comes to football – which peaked when a giant inflatable Christ the Redeemer floated above the crowd. There we drank a celebratory Quilmes, joined in the singing (“Brasil, decime que se siente” has since been stuck in an endless loop in my head) and soaked up the incredible atmosphere of the biggest street party I have ever witnessed. In desperate need of food, we set off, walking halfway home given that transport had come to a standstill near the centro thanks to the masses of people – cars were simply being abandoned anywhere and people had taken over the streets leaving no room for cars to manoeuvre. Along the way we treated ourselves to some delicious Kentucky pizza, beer, and a free ice cream from Burger King (because even the staff were in a celebratory mood). Finally we managed to catch a bus, where the party continued with people singing and jumping . Even further from the centro, people were in the streets everywhere, having a party wherever they could.

For days after, people were singing on the bus, the subway, and in the streets. So by the time Sunday rolled around, excitement was fever pitch. I headed down to Plaza San Martín again with a crowd of friends, thinking we’d be ok getting there 2 hours early. But it was absolute madness already. There were so many people, blue white and yellow wherever you looked, drums beating, people singing, vuvuzelas (well, not real ones, but mimics), whistles, flags waving… it was such an amazing feeling to be part of that crowd. Plus we racked up some bonus points with the crowd around us as we starting handing out leftover cake (decorated with the South African flag – spreading some saffa love) from the previous night’s birthday party.

But then the game didn’t go quite the way the crowd was willing it. Things quietened down as the stress set in. The most heart-stopping moment was when Higuaín scored, and everybody jumped up screaming only to realise it was off-side. Into extra-time we went with still no goal. And then absolute heartbreak when Germany scored a few minutes from the end. There was just shocked silence, until a few seconds after the final whistle blew, and people just started clapping. It wasn’t a cheer or excitement, but a show of respect, to a good game and to an Argentinean team that had done everybody proud. Of course, there were people that were distraught, with a group of guys next to us dissolving into guttural crying, and an old lady in shedding tears well. The emotions and passion, as ever, were strong. As we started walking back, in a crowd of people that was a good couple of thousand people strong, everyone just started singing and waiving their flags. It was like the shock of losing wore off and people decided they were going to party anyway – hey, we made it to the finals, finishing ahead of arch-rivals, Brazil!

Being emotionally exhausted from the stress of the game, physically drained from standing for last 3 or 4 hours, and still feeling the effects of a night out before, our group decided to head back home, despite the fact that masses were streaming to the Obelisco again. As we walked home (again having to walk nearly half-way home before getting to a place where the buses could actually drive), people were just coming in waves, all heading downtown in an elated party mood. I can only imagine what it would have been like if Argentina had won.

In the end, I was quite glad I didn’t head down. As always in a big crowd, there are some that are just looking for trouble, and some drunk youths starting fighting and breaking things. The police reacted, there was some chaos and a number of people were arrested. It’s a pity that this marred an otherwise peaceful and happy atmosphere.

But all in all, people are proud of the team, for getting to the final and putting up a great fight, and for beating Brazil. And I for one am extremely grateful for this experience. I had been deeply regretting not making it to Brazil for the world cup, but partying in the streets with thousands of Argentine’s was one of those once-in-a-lifetime moments that I’ll never forget, and more than makes up for not being in Brazil. As a friend remarked as we stood in the middle of a heaving crowd of ecstatic Argentines, there’s nowhere I’d rather be at this moment than in Argentina.

 

Parque de la Memoria

Remembering Argentina’s Violent Past

Something not listed in many tour guides is the Parque de la Memoria (Memory Park) in Buenos Aires. Between the local airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newberry and the University of Buenos Aires (UBA), looking out onto the Río de la Plata estuary, this park is a memorial to the victims of the military regime.

The 1976-83 military regime was and is a very dark patch in Argentina’s history. The scars of which can still be seen today in society, such as in the continued existence of the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo. The military government called this time the National Reorganization Period, an all too sanitary name for this extremely violent spell during Argentina’s Dirty War. In this time, it is estimated that 30,000 people went missing, most of them young men or boys. Bodies were flown from a military airport close to where the memorial is today, and dumped in the river.

Hence Parque de la Memoria’s strategic position on the banks of the river, a reminder of the chilling acts of this regime. There is one particularly moving sculpture which stands in the river itself and becomes obscured when the water level rises. The park is fairly sparse, with scattered monuments and sculptures, and two large walls of names of victims. There is a big hall in the centre of the park which contains exhibitions and serves a cultural centre as well. It is fittingly quiet here, despite a fair amount of locals and kids playing on the ramps leading past the wall of names, and its proximity to the airport.

Parque de la Memoria is unpretentious, undecorated, sombre and haunting, even in the light of a beautiful winter’s day. I feel it is a fitting memorial to pay homage to such a terrible scar on Argentina’s history, and provided an insightful and sobering visit.

“To think is a revolutionary act / Pensar as un hecho revolucionario”

Music, Art and Malbec: Ciudad Emergente 2014

The city government of Buenos Aires is extremely good at hosting all manner of free events around this city. As if there wasn’t enough to do already. One of their recent events was the Ciudad Emergente festival – billed as an underground music and arts festival for emerging artists. It’s a five-day, free festival taking place in the Recoleta Cultural Centre. Five days of art exhibitions, live graffiti, photography exhibitions, music listening halls, stand-up comedy, free performances of Fuerza Bruta (a long-running, extremely popular post-modern theatre show / extravaganza), and of course a big outdoor stage on the terrace where upcoming and more established Argentine rock (and pop-rock) bands were performing.

Given that the festival is run by the city, there was also an interactive space where people were asked to write down their suggestions for improving the city, according to various categories like social interaction, community development, green/environmental issues and nightlife. After getting pulled into a conversation with one of the volunteers working there, he insisted we add a suggestion, even if it was in English. We obliged, hopefully leaving our mark on the city’s future developments.

The whole event made for a great afternoon and evening, wandering around the various exhibitions, and listening to some live music. Whilst sitting on the bottom terrace enjoying a glass of wine and a hotdog (odd combination of classy and cheap!) in the winter sun, listening to the music filtering down from the terrace above, I had a moment of pure contentment, realising that life here is pretty good indeed. The day was nicely rounded off by meeting up with friends at the adjacent Hard Rock Café for a drink – and dessert -before heading back into the cold night air to listen to some more music under the stars.